No Filter Needed: Santorini’s Beauty, Crete’s Soul
Santorini - Bucket List Beauty
Greece was on my bucket list for destinations, especially Santorini, and I finally got to visit there a few years ago. While Santorini was breathtaking, I took more pictures than I ever have on vacation – no filter needed – the place we want to return to is the Island of Crete. On Santorini, we explored the towns of Oia and Fira and enjoyed the sunset at Santos Winery. Ultimately, although it was picture perfect, it was a little disconcerting to be so close to a beautiful sea with no practical way of getting there or enjoying it. It was also expensive, crowded, and small. I’m glad we visited Santorini but recommend Crete for longer exploration.
Anne’s Tip: One night in Santorini is all you need!
Crete: A Deeper Dive
Crete is the largest Greek Island, with very different microclimates and towns. We rented a car and found it fairly easy to drive in Crete, expanding our options for touring several areas. Our first afternoon, we enjoyed the beach in Rethymnon at the Baja Beach Club. We started our exploration of Crete’s history with a visit to Knossos, the center for the Minoan civilization, considered the first in Europe. We hadn’t booked a tour but were able to find a tour to join at the entrance. My cousin is a middle school teacher and was thrilled to see the Bull-Leaping Fresco at the Palace of Knossos after having seen it in her textbook for years. It was impressive to see such architecture and art from the Bronze age and a worthwhile tour.
Anne’s Tip: During busy times, book the tour of Knossos ahead.
Wine, Food, and History in Heraklion
The next day, we had booked a walking food tour in the capital of Heraklion. We visited the market, a bakery, a coffee roasting shop, a cheese shop and botanical store. Food is history and culture and geography – making it a delicious way to discover Crete. We then had lunch at Erastechnes Psarades, right on the harbor. The building was the first building with modern refrigeration in Crete, set near the harbor for easy use by fishermen. The building didn’t look like much from the outside, although it has a nice mural on it, but wow was the food incredible! The lunch also included a wine tasting and I absolutely fell in love with Dafni, a wine by local vineyard Lyrarakis. Although I am a wine lover, I had not expected to fall in love with Greek wines!!! After our lunch, we said goodbye to our excellent tour guide and walked over to the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, a great history experience (and nice way to work off the effects of our wine at lunch).
Anne’s Tip: Food tours in Heraklion can be very accessible for travelers with limited mobility; the spots we visited and the areas we walked are easily accessible.
Our next two days, we spent on Santorini, taking a high-speed ferry from Heraklion. We stayed in a charming boutique hotel with a patio, private hot tub, and view of the Mediterranean. Our hotel was located between Fira and Oia and perfect for walking along the coastal path. The views were spectacular and there were lots of charming shops, restaurants, and taverns to explore. I’m so glad we visited and I ticked that off my bucket list.
Beaches, Towns and Unexpected Delights
Once back on Crete, we had planned to hike the Samaria Gorge. Unfortunately, my friend sprained her ankle on Santorini, so we had to leave the hike for our next trip. Instead, we drove to Elafonisis Beach, truly beautiful. At times, the sand on the beach appears pink! The water is beautiful and the beach is very nice. In the evening, we stopped in Chania for dinner. Chania is a town that has a fascinating blend of ancient Greek, Venetian, and Byzantine history. The streets of the old town feel like a mini-Venice, with narrow and winding cobblestoned streets, with lots of shops and restaurants to explore. There have been several new hotels built in Chania and it is a wonderful location.
Our last full day on Crete, we visited the Lyrarakis winery. After sampling the Dafni at our Heraklion lunch, we knew we wanted to find out more about Lyrarakis. It is a beautiful property in the hills above Heraklion with wonderful tours and tasting options. This winery has revived indigenous varietals, like the Dafni, and work with a variety of local vineyards to source their grapes. Their wines are all unique and terrific. Our favorite red is the Kotsifali. We saved a bottle for a future trip and enjoyed it with a cooking class in Ireland. We offered the host, a five-star chef, a taste of the Kotsifali. He seemed to be humoring us by tasting our Greek wine, but after a taste, he came around the counter and took a photograph of the label!
After our Lyrarakis tour and tasting, we headed over the mountains to the south coast of Crete. There are beautiful beaches on the south coast, and on clear days you can see the coast of Africa from this part of Crete. It is a drier and warmer climate than other parts of Crete and also less developed with fewer resorts.
Anne’s Tip: Very, very occasionally we find Lyrarakis wines in the United States. If you are lucky enough to spot a bottle, definitely buy it!
Why We’ll Return to Crete
At the end of week in Crete (and Santorini), we realized that it had not been enough time! We had not had the opportunity to explore the east coast of Crete, as well as spend more time on the southern coast. We will definitely return to hike the Samaria Gorge and enjoy the history, food, wine, and beaches that make Crete so magical.
Planning your own Greek adventure? Let’s chat!